Canada and Alaska Trip, August 2018

Saturday 11th August

Travelled down to Gatwick the night before and met up with Lizzie, who had come from work via the train! Nice room and after a very quick get together to bed.

Up for check in at 6.30 only to find the plane delayed for an hour and a half. Flying Air Transat so not too surprised. On boarding found seats a little on the narrow side. Luckily on the window side so a bit more room!

A  nine and a half hour flight so arrived shattered into Vancouver. Then a 4 hour  journey via coach and ferry to Victoria. Hotel was The Inn on Laurel Point. Very nice, clean and efficient. Eat on the boat so pretty much straight to bed.

Inn at Laurel Point

Sunday 12th

Victoria
Slept well that night but up before dawn, wide awake so had to go bird watching!

Dawn at Victoria BC

Headed out to Fisherman's Wharf along the sea front. Not too many people around so pretty much had the place to myself.

Floating Houses, Fisherman's Wharf

Floating Houses, Fisherman's Wharf

Floating Houses, Fisherman's Wharf

It was a beautiful morning with great views over the harbour to the main part of Victoria.

Fisherman's Wharf

Victoria BC

Common Yellowthroat 

White-Crowned Sparrow (male)

White-Crowned Sparrow (female)

Great Blue Heron

12 Aug 201807:49

Anna's Hummingbird
Calypte anna

Fisherman's Wharf

Count3

12 Aug 201807:44

Black-capped Chickadee
Poecile atricapillus

Fisherman's Wharf

Count3

12 Aug 2018

Glaucous-winged Gull (Lifer)
Larus glaucescens

Fisherman's Wharf

Count29

12 Aug 2018

Pigeon Guillemot
Cepphus columba

Fisherman's Wharf

Count13

12 Aug 2018

Black Oystercatcher(Lifer)

Haematopus bachmani

Fisherman's Wharf

Count3

12 Aug 2018

Starling Sturnus vulgaris

Fisherman's Wharf

Count17

12 Aug 2018

Great Blue Heron (Lifer)



Ardea herodias

Fisherman's Wharf

Count1

12 Aug 2018

Northwestern Crow (Lifer)
Corvus caurinus

Fisherman's Wharf

Count7

12 Aug 2018

American Bushtit (Lifer)
Psaltriparus minimus

Fisherman's Wharf

Count13

Six new species to add to my personal list.

Anna's Hummingbird

Everyone up and active for breakfast at 9.00 and very nice it was too. Eggs Ben went down well with the girls, porridge for Debbie and full breakfast for yours truly.

Spent rest of day exploring Victoria and enjoying the feel of the place. Fisherman's Wharf went down well as did the nearby coffee shop which sold the biggest cakes ever seen.

There was a Dragon boat festival on which added to the atmosphere, with good crowds and lots of action.

Evening meal at a very nice restuarant nearby.

Monday 13th

Victoria moving to Vancouver this afternoon.

Up before dawn and off bird watching. Headed to MacDonalds Park but other than a large flock of Glaucous-winged Gull washing in a pool outside on of the hotels and another in the park, little else so down to the see and along Ogden Point to Fisherman's Wharf again.

13 Aug 201808:05

Belted Kingfisher (Lifer)
Megaceryle alcyon

Ogden Point

Count1

13 Aug 201807:23

Northwestern Crow
Corvus caurinus

Ogden Point

Count7

13 Aug 201807:18

Pigeon Guillemot
Cepphus columba

Ogden Point

Count2

13 Aug 201807:16

Starling
Sturnus vulgaris

Ogden Point

Count7

13 Aug 201807:06

Pigeon Guillemot
Cepphus columba

Ogden Point

Count3

13 Aug 201806:48

Glaucous-winged Gull
Larus glaucescens

Ogden Point

Count34

13 Aug 201806:47

Mallard
Anas platyrhynchos

Ogden Point

Count6

13 Aug 2018

Black Oystercatcher
Haematopus bachmani

Ogden Point

Count1

13 Aug 2018

Purple Finch (Lifer)
Haemorhous purpureus

Ogden Point

Count3

13 Aug 2018

Song Sparrow (Lifer)
Melospiza melodia

Ogden Point

Count3

13 Aug 2018

Common Yellowthroat(Lifer)
Geothlypis trichas

Ogden Point

Count1

4 Lifers

Black Oystercatcher

Bushtit

Belted Kingfisher

Breakfast again down in the restaurant. Esther having pork skillet, full breakfast for Lizzie and myself and Eggs Benny for Debbie. Return to Fisherman's Wharf and watched a very relaxed Harbour Seal.

Relaxed Harbour Seal at Fisherman's Wharf

Caught the coach to the ferry. Just before the terminal spotted a single Green-backed Heron(Lifer) on the lake and a large flock of Barn Swallow feeding over the water.

Date

Species

Location

13 Aug 201817:54

Herring Gull

Larus argentatus

Vancouver Island Ferry

Count1

13 Aug 201817:22

Mew Gull Larus canus

Vancouver Island Ferry

Count4

13 Aug 201817:22

Double-crested Cormorant (Lifer) Phalacrocorax auritus

Vancouver Island Ferry

Count7

13 Aug 201817:22

Black Oystercatcher
Haematopus bachmani

Vancouver Island Ferry

Count6

13 Aug 201817:20

Pigeon Guillemot
Cepphus columba

Vancouver Island Ferry

Count17

13 Aug 201817:20

Bald Eagle
Haliaeetus leucocephalus

Vancouver Island Ferry

Count3

13 Aug 201817:12

Pigeon Guillemot
Cepphus columba

Vancouver Island Ferry

Count3

13 Aug 201817:11

Glaucous-winged Gull
Larus glaucescens

Vancouver Island Ferry

Count5

13 Aug 201817:10

Common Gull

Larus canus

Vancouver Island Ferry

Count7

13 Aug 201817:09

Double-crested Cormorant
Phalacrocorax auritus

Vancouver Island Ferry

Count9

13 Aug 2018

Pelagic Cormorant (Lifer)
Phalacrocorax pelagicus

Vancouver Island Ferry

Count5

3 lifers including Green-backed Heron.

Pelagic Cormorant

Pigeon Guillemot

Had a smooth return crossing to Vancouver.

Arrived at hotel and settled in for the evening.

Tuesday 14th: Vancouver

Up for breakfast which went down like a lead balloon! Reminded us of a youth hostel! Big room, trestle tables and only cereal and toast. Too crowded for coffee! Disappointing!

Off to explore Vancouver which has grown and changed so much in the ten years since we were last here. Sadly it also seems to contain more down and outs and aggressive beggers.

Walked along the front, passing the cruise terminal and had a disappointing lunch at a dutch styled restaurant. Then on to Stanley park and back along Sunset beach, an area that we visited and enjoyed last time we visited. Stopped at the LGBT Davies Village for coffee and then back for a snooze before a very nice meal at a local eatery.

14 Aug 2018

Common Sandpiper
Actitis hypoleucos

Stanley Park

Count1

14 Aug 2018

Herring Gull
L
arus argentatus

Stanley Park

Count9

14 Aug 2018

Great Blue Heron
Ardea herodias

Stanley Park

Count1

14 Aug 2018

Cackling Goose (Lifer)
Branta hutchinsii

Stanley Park

Count17

14 Aug 2018

Cedar Waxwing
Bombycilla cedrorum

Stanley Park

Count1

Cackling Goose (Stanley Park)

Wednesday 15th
Repeat performance for breakfast then packing. Brief walk down to the stadium before departing to the cruise terminal.

The whole process of boarding was very painless and we were soon onboard and settling in. Our stateroom (7061) has a balcony and as we are on the starboard side we get excellent views of the coast all the way to Alaska. The girls are down below, no window I'm afraid but as they send most of the time up here no real worry.

Getting ready for departure

Ship departed at 4pm after a compulsory evacuation drill which was fun! Waved goodbye to the strangers gathered on shore and set out for seven days cruising the Inner Passage to Alaska and back. The ship, Volendam, is beautifully appointed, spotlessly clean and the staff and crew very friendly and helpful.

Everyone is very pleasant and helpful but I think it  will take a while to get used to this life style. A very good meal in The Dining Room and then to bed feeling very shattered.

Thursday 16th: Inner Passage, all day cruising

Up with the dawn creeping in through the curtains and out for a stroll around the  deck. A number of other people out, everyone saying hello as they passed by. Glorious morning, fairly calm and heating up.

Dawn, Inner Passage

We are on board all day as we sail north towards Juneau through the Inner Passage. Plenty to do on board so we plan to make the most of it. Nothing spotted so far, fingers crossed.

We gathered for a family breakfast in The Dining Room which proved to be very enjoyable and the general consensus was that it was a more pleasant experience than The Lido for breakfast.

Salmon passing by

We departed for various activities; the girls to the gym, Debbie to a talk on making the best of your excursion and I went off to An Introduction to Windows 10 which proved useful! It's very nice to be able to wonder around, watching the beautiful and stunning landscape slip by.

Before that did a bit of bird watching spotting a Cassin's Auklet pass by and a couple of Red-throated Diver on the wing.

While in the Windows talk a young Humpback Whale breached right outside the room windows giving the best views of the day so far. A number of other distant sightings of backs and flumes but no spectacular jumps.

A good number of Harbour Porpoises passing as were Salmon which have started their run up river. A Sea Otter was coming across on of the sounds that we passed through.

As of 18.47 we have covered 487 spectacular miles passing through narrow channels and across wide open bays. The weather has been kind and the views breathtaking.

Narrow passage

View of passing countryside from stateroom.

Friday 17th: Tracy Inlet

Approaching Juneau, we were to embark on our first trip. Breakfast in the Lido Market was very different to the dining room- more hustle and bustle. Girls up earlier than us so we ate separately. 8:55am we met in the main stage and then after numerous checks disembarked, mid- sea to a smaller boat for a 6 hour trip around Tracy Arm. Approx 130 people on board with commentary from Morgan.

I spent all the trip outside bird and whale/seal/otter watching. I took over a nice sheltered corner of the boat and this became the family gathering area.

The trip up the inlet was breath-taking, with splendid views of the steep mountains and stunning landscape of forest, waterfalls and cliffs. Once over the Tracy Arm Bar we entered the fjord, past No Name Cove and on to The Sawyer Glacier. Impressive but not as impressive as the South Sawyer Glacier that appeared after we passed Sawyer Island. We were able to approach close to the face and see the colours of the ice clearly. Around us Harbour Seals lay on the ice.

South Sawyer Glacier, Tracy Inlet

Harbour Seals

Passing back we headed for Juneau entering the Stephens Passage. Here we came across 4 or 5 Humpbacked Whale and we were able to photograph their tails but sadly no jumps!

Humpback Whale

18 Aug 201809:25

Pigeon Guillemot Cepphus columba

Tracy Inlet

Count17

18 Aug 201809:24

Herring Gull Larus argentatus

Tracy Inlet

18 Aug 201809:24

Glaucous-winged Gull Larus glaucescens

Tracy Inlet

18 Aug 201809:24

Kittiwake Rissa tridactyla

Tracy Inlet

Countc100

18 Aug 201808:57

Velvet Scoter Melanitta fusca

Tracy Inlet

Count5

18 Aug 201808:56

Black Scoter (Lifer) Melanitta americana

Tracy Inlet

Countc50

18 Aug 2018

Bonaparte's Gull (Lifer) Chroicocephalus philadelphia

Tracy Inlet

Count7

18 Aug 2018

Marbled Murrelet (Lifer)Brachyramphus marmoratus

Tracy Inlet

Count2

18 Aug 2018

Surf Scoter (Lifer)Melanitta perspicillata

Tracy Inlet

Count8

18 Aug 2018

Black-headed GullChroicocephalus ridibundus

Tracy Inlet

Countc50

18 Aug 2018

Tufted Puffin (Lifer)Fratercula cirrhata

Tracy Inlet

Count1

Arrived back at the ship and straight up to the Dive In for burger and chips as we were starving! Then out to explore Juneau which didn't take long as it seemed to be made up of jewelry stores and replica goods. The capital of Alsaka?

Retuned to the ship and another excellent dinner in the Dining Room with attentive service through out and excellent food!
Departed Juneau around 10 pm and all slept soundly until....

Saturday 18th: Skagway

....we awake in Skagway. A leisurely breakfast and then off to explore town. I left the girls to do the sight seeing and went of to do some bird watching. Sadly the salmon had stopped running and so the river was very quiet and there was little about. Did manage to add a couple of new ticks to the list so mustn't grumble.

The girls had visited the local brothel (historical I should add) and came back with many tales of the gold rush period, Skagway being the gateway to the gold fields.

Lunch on board and then boarded the White Pass and Yukon Railway to take the journey to top of The White Pass following the trail the gold rush miners took.

Monument to the Gold Rush Pioneers, Skagway

An amazing journey for us and an unbelievable journey for them.

White Pass and Yukon Railway

Returned and dropped off at the town depot and so spent a bit more time exploring the town, which of the three places we visited turned out to be the nicest and most interesting.

Typical Gold Rush bar.

Evening meal at The Dining Room and early to bed having watched the landscape slide past the window. Tomorrow Glacier Bay!

18 Aug 201810:52

Grey Jay (Lifer)Perisoreus canadensis

Skagway

Count1

18 Aug 201810:43

Steller's JayCyanocitta stelleri

Skagway

Count1

18 Aug 201810:24

American CrowCorvus brachyrhynchos

Skagway

Count1

18 Aug 201810:20

Herring GullLarus argentatus

Skagway

Count4

18 Aug 201810:19

RavenCorvus corax

Skagway

Count1

18 Aug 2018

Orange-crowned Warbler (Lifer)Leiothlypis celata

Skagway

Count1

18 Aug 2018

Harlequin DuckHistrionicus histrionicus

Skagway

Count2

Harlequin Duck

Volendam's logo painted on the harbour cliff

Tonight's towel animal: Dinosaur

Moon rise over Skegway

Sunday 19th: Glacier Bay

Awoke at Dawn to another fantastic landscape sliding by. We were leaving the Icy Strait and entering Glacier Bay. Woke Debbie up and phoned the girls! Debbie joined me to watch the progress up the bay, the girls joined later.

Dawn as we approach Glacier Bay

Entering Glacier Bay at dawn

The Park Ranger Service had joined the ship as we passed Barlett Cove and they provided an excellent but unobtrusive commentary on what we were about to see. As we passed close to the land were were able to spot Brown Bear exploring the shore line and Mountain Goat on the hills.

Two Brown Bear

We passed a number of glaciers until we reached the mighty Grand Pacific Glacier at the head of the bay, here in the most amazing scenery, and with such a peaceful air to the place the ship slowly rotated, giving splendid views of such an awe inspiring place.

The Matrie de had spotted me armed with camera and binoculars and gave me the tip of not going up on the top observation deck but to head to the Promenade as it was quieter and being at a lower level you were able to get better photos. This proved to be the best tip I've had in a long time!

The booming of ice breaking free is an amazing sound but having stood with just the 3 of us and James at a foot of an even larger glacier in Iceland and heard and saw the crashing down of newly calved icebergs, this time we were sharing with a thousand people. However, it was a magnificent place to be and one we will always remember.

That afternoon we went to an interesting talk by the Park Ranger on her work and Glacier Bay. There was also a wonderful talk given by a lady from the Huna Tlingit Clan who lived in this area. Her story telling ability was a real treat to witness.

Park Rangers departing

Bald Eagle on iceberg

Humpback Whale

Humpback diving

Gala Diner tonight and an invite for us all to the Officer's Reception at the Crow's Nest.

Tonight's towel animal: Dog

19 Aug 201817:53

Double-crested CormorantPhalacrocorax auritus

Glacier Bay

Count1

19 Aug 201815:21

Rhinoceros AukletCerorhinca monocerata

Glacier Bay

Countc50

19 Aug 201814:22

Tufted PuffinFratercula cirrhata

Glacier Bay

Count3

19 Aug 201813:05

Glaucous-winged GullLarus glaucescens

Glacier Bay

Countc50

19 Aug 201813:05

KittiwakeRissa tridactyla

Glacier Bay

Countc100

19 Aug 201813:05

Pigeon GuillemotCepphus columba

Glacier Bay

Count3

19 Aug 201810:45

Bald EagleHaliaeetus leucocephalus

Glacier Bay

Count3

19 Aug 201808:33

RavenCorvus corax

Glacier Bay

Count1

19 Aug 2018

Velvet ScoterMelanitta fusca

Glacier Bay

Count16

19 Aug 2018

Surf ScoterMelanitta perspicillata

Glacier Bay

Count5

Monday 20th: Ketchikan

We sailed through the night, which was fairly smooth other than a short period of choppy seas as we moved into the main channel and awoke as we came into Ketchikan, the first city of Alaska and the Salmon capital of the world.

Sailing into Ketchikan

After a leisurely breakfast we went to explore Creek Street, which was once the brothel district of the town..... is there a pattern emerging here! The brothels were banned from being built on land so they built them on stilts in the bay! An interesting place but rather crowded as there were four cruise ships in so we did not dwell and returned to the boat for lunch as we were booked on a trip to the Saxman Native Village and a lumberjack show.

The village was a bus journey out of town and proved to be very interesting and it was nice to watch some First Nation dancing and to look at the Totem poles and to get an insight into their history, meaning and creation.

The lumberjack show proved to be a real hoot and most enjoyable. Amusing and at times quiet spectacular the teams but on an excellent show.

All aboard and departure just after 5.30 on a blisteringly hot evening we are now sailing back to Vancouver. One more day on board, its a shame our time is coming to an end but at least tomorrow we can sit back and just watch the stunning landscape slip by and maybe spot a few more whales.

After another fine diner in the Dining Room, Debbie and I went to the Theatre to watch the BBC Earth Life in Alaska presentation to live music. The images were superb and the performance was well worth staying up for.

Distance so far traveled 2494 nm.

Tuesday 21st: Sailing back to Vancouver

Heading back to Vancouver so sailing all day. Girls off to various presentations, the majority being BBC Earth. I 've spent most of the day birding, with good numbers of Common Murre. The ship was followed for a short time by a Peregrine Falcon. Also spotted Porpoise, Dolphin and a single Humpback Whale.

Peregrine Falcon

Common Murre

Humpback Whale diving

The smoke from the forest fires has made for poor visibility and a bit of an aching chest. After diner tonight we will have to pack as cases have to be outside the stateroom by midnight!

Tips for if there is a next cruise
Get a room with a verhanda
If you can get one towards the back of the ship and just under the lido so that you can pop up to get coffee and cakes when ever needed!
Go with Holland America

Wednesday 22nd: Vancouver
Last breakfast in The Dining Room and a fairly easy departure from The Volendam. It has been a wonderful trip, worth every penny. The cruise has passed through some of the most spectacular scenery and we've spotted some great wildlife.

It has been a real treat to spend time together with all the family in such pleasant surroundings.

Cruise Stats
Miles Traveled: 1994
Fuel used: 111,769 gallons
Eggs consumed: 8 655