The Camargue: May 2019

THE CAMARGUE

DATES: SUNDAY 5TH MAY TO FRIDAY 10TH MAY 2019 

Sunset and shadows: The Camargue May 2019

Introduction 

Another solo bird watching trip brought me to The Camargue at the start of May 2019. I flew into Nimes on the Sunday afternoon with Ryanair arriving a little late and after three attempts to land. The wind that caused landing difficulties was to plague the region for the next two days, making an interesting introduction to this area. 

Having picked up from Hertz set of for my base for the week at Saint-Gilles. I selected to stay at The Appartement Anatole France, booked through Bookings.com at a cost of £224 for five nights. The apartment provided to be an idea base. The accommodation was very good with the added benefits of having a secure garage underneath the first-floor apartment that meant I could leave the heavier equipment safely in the car overnight. Its location was idea for visiting the areas I wishes to get too with none of them more than 40 minutes away from this base. It was also only 15 minutes away from the airport. 

Once again, I was indebted to Dave Gosney and his guide to Finding Birds in The South of France. As with his previous publications which I have used in other areas, I found his recommendations excellent, easy to find and accurate in description. I would highly recommend them to anyone visiting the area. I did spend a beneficial amount of time before visiting this area putting the grid references provided by Dave Gosney into my TomTom making locating and driving too them quick and easy. 


Photos taken during this visit can be viewed at: 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/fenlandbirder/albums/72157707090573671/with/33993502738/ 



Day 1: Monday 6th May 

Wind! I had heard of the Mistral but this was the first time I had ever experienced it. Biting wind that within a short period of time resulted in a headache like I have never had before. This wind was to last all day and into the next day. However here to birdwatch so headed for the highly recommended Marais Du Vigueirat, which as Gosney states, is ‘one of the best wetlands for birding in the whole Camargue region’ (La Vigueirat Marshes, Gosney, page 20). I arrived before the centre opened but was still able to have access to the site and during the whole of my visit saw no-one at all. 
The incessant wind I feel did have an impact on the birding with everything keeping low and hidden away out of the wind. However did manage good numbers of Wood Sandpiper, Glossy Ibis, Squacco Heron and Great and Little Egret.  

Cattle and Cattle Egret
In a more sheltered area had good views of Black winged Stilt and Purple Heron. Cattle Egret were feeding with the cattle in a nearby field. 

Black-winged Stilt
Having departed this very pleasant reserve I headed south passing along the North-east side of the Etang de Vaccares towards La Capeliere and the Reserve National de Camargue passing good number of Greater Flamingo and Glossy Ibis. While watching one group of Flamingo I also located five Green Sandpiper and three Kentish Plover. 

Glossy Ibis
The Reserve itself proved rather popular with school parties with three coaches waiting to off load. I therefore passed by and headed towards Le Sambuc and the observation tower over the Marais de Grenouillet. Again, the wind proved very challenging and although there were good numbers of Greater Flamingo present the wind resulted in a return to base to recover. However, a passing female Montagu Harrier made up for the early retreat. 
By evening time, the wind had dropped so set off to explore the flooded fields around Saint-Gilles and down to the area around Mas D’Agon. The flooded fields attracted good numbers of Wood Sandpiper and Glossy Ibis in groups up to fifty strong. The fields around Saliers were particularly attractive with good numbers of Black-headed Gull and Mediterranean Gull.  

While exploring the area between Saliers and Gimeaux for pratincole (Gosney: The Camargue: point 10) a group of seven Honey Buzzard passed over moving from south to north. 
Honey Buzzard
This was one of the wonderful highlights of the whole trip!  Sadly, no pratincole. 

Moving on to the area around Mas D’Agon (Gosney: The Camargue: point 12) proved to be another highlight of the day. While the north marsh produced a couple of Purple Heron and several calling Great Reed Warbler, the marshes on the other side of the road were teeming in bird and animal life. As this road is very quiet, it was possible to stop at a number of points along it and by standing on the car door sill, get excellent views of the area. Greater Flamingo were visible in good numbers with 87 being counted. Mixed in with them were Black-winged Stilt with nine showing well and numerous Wood Sandpiper. Numerous gull species were present including Slender-billed, Mediterranean, Black-headed and Yellow-legged Gull and Terns were represented by Common, Whiskered and White-winged. Great Egret were showing well along with Cattle, Squacco and Blackcrowned Night Heron. Two Hobby stirred up the numerous Wood Sandpiper on a couple of occasions. A distant view of a Collared Pratincole hawking over the far side to the marsh proved to be the only sighting of this species during the visit. 

Greater Flamingo at sunset
Day 2: Tuesday 7th May 

The wind had dropped during the night so the visit to Centre de Découverte du Scamandre (Gosney: The Camargue: point 1) was made on a pleasant, warm morning. Arriving early allows you to avoid the crowds as by lunch time the place was busy with school parties and what seemed to be walking groups. 

Broadwalk to hide
I was very impressed with the layout of this reserve with pathways taking you through a variety of habitats and well place hides and screens. As entry was free this was a bonus. I could imagine that this would be a great place to visit during the migration season but was rather quiet in May. 

The nesting White Stork attracted a great deal of interest from the many visitors. Red Crested Pochard were present in good numbers as were Glossy Ibis, Great, Little, Squacco and Cattle Egret. Purple Swamphen and Water Rail were heard calling from the reeds on a number of occasions.
White Stork and young
Highlight of the visit was a male Pied Flycatcher showing well as it darted from bush to bush.


Pied Flycatcher (Male)
 Returned to Mas D’Agon (Gosney: The Camargue: point 12) in the evening, finding two Turtle Dove feeding along the road to the marshes. Over 150 Greater Flamingo were feeding, with small parties coming and going. Glossy Ibis were also moving around in great numbers. 

Glossy Ibis heading to roost

Day 3: Wednesday 8th May 

Woke to rain and it stayed around for most of the day, being torrential at times. This resulted in a day birding from the car as to venture out would result in a soaking.  

First stop was the flooded fields around Albaron, where again Glossy Ibis were present in good numbers as were Black-headed, Mediterranean and Yellow-legged Gull.  



 Moved on to Domaine de Mejanes (Gosney: The Camargue: point 7), an area in which pratincole had been found in the past. No such luck this time but did find a Melodious Warbler skulking in the undergrowth.  

Retreating to the car as the rain came down again, I decided to drive south down the track towards Santes Maries, (Gosney: The Camargue: point 7 to 6), a journey of 10 km along the shoreline of the Etang du Vaccaries. The rain continued throughout most of this drive but did not spoil the birdwatching. I counted over 200 Greater Flamingo feeding in various locations. 

A female Wheatear was feeding along the road edge and a pair of Tawny Pipit were observed moving around. Three Kentish Plover were skulking behind tufts of grass trying to keep out of the wind along with a couple of Little Ringed as well as Ringed Plover. Avocet were feeding together on the large pool at the end of the track where it joins the main road. 
Being a quiet track there was plenty of opportunity to stop and scan for birds. However, the weather was foul with increasing high winds and torrential rain, making for difficult conditions.  


Day 4: Thursday 9th May 

At last a decent day for bird watching! Warm and sunny with only a gentle breeze. Being impressed with yesterday’s route from Domaine de Mejanes to Saintes Maries (Gosney: The Camargue: points 7 to 6) I decided to repeat this route again in fine weather, giving myself more time to stop and have a good look around to see what was about. 

First stop was the area around Domaine de Mejanes and the lane identified by Gosney as being good for Collered Pratincole. Checking out the bushes and ditches resulted in a male Pied Flycatcher, two Cetti’s Warblers and a Willow Warbler but no pratincoles. I did chat to one of the farm workers and he confirmed that they were in the area but neither of us were able to spot any. We did have great views of a passing Short-toed Eagle being harassed by two Booted Eagles. 

A stop by the railway line produced two Spoonbill flying over and a group of twelve Cattle Egret in a nearby field. Throughout the run there were good numbers of Greater Flamingo feeding or flying in or out of the area, a total of 549 being recorded. Zitting Cisticola (Fan-tailed Warbler), Sardinian and Cetti’s were all present as was a single Black Redstart.  
Given yesterday’s poor weather today was a real treat with the whole area teeming with birds but the highlight of the day must have been the two Wild Boar which had climbed into a feed trough and were having a good meal. 

Wild Boar in cattle trough
That evening returned to the area around Saliiers (Gosney: The Camargue: point 10) again looking for Pratincole but without luck. Despite that was able to hear and record a Scops Owl calling and between distant gun fire (?) the boom of a Bittern. 


Day 5: Friday 10th May 

Last day so after packing the car and checking out of the apartment I had a couple of hours to kill before flying back to the UK. I decided to return to Centre de Découverte du Scamandre (Gosney: The Camargue: point 1). I was able to get some good photos of Black-crowned Night Heron  





And in the same location where I found the male Pied Flycatcher I photographed a female Pied Flycatcher. 




 While waiting for the plan watched a pair of Redstart moving around the bushes just outside the terminal and a Hoopoe in the car park. 


Summary 

This was a first visit to The Camargue, and I would certainly consider returning especially during the migration season. I would highly recommend using Dave Gosney’s Finding Birds in The South of France. I found the information accurate and informative. 
Saint-Gilles proved to be a useful location, giving easy access to all the areas I wished to visit. 
I was impressed by the nature reserves visited. They were areas of great interest, superbly laid out with paths and hides and some very interesting displays. 
I particularly like exploring the many flooded fields which held a wide variety of birds. I was great to be able to stop and view from the car without a constant flow of passing traffic. Although I did find that a lot of areas had signs restricting access this did not spoil scanning such places for what might be around. 




Species List: 100 bird species recorded and 2 mammals 

Birds

Avocet                       Recurvirostra avosetta 
Bee-eater                  Merops apiaster 
Bittern                       Botaurus stellaris 
Black Kite                  Milvus migrans 
Black Redstart          Phoenicurus ochruros 
Blackbird                  Turdus merula 
Blackcap                   Sylvia atricapilla 
Black-headed Gull    Chroicocephalus ridibundus 
Black-winged Stilt     Himantopus himantopus 
Blue Tit                     Cyanistes caeruleus 
Booted Eagle            Hieraaetus pennatus 
Carrion Crow            Corvus corone 
Cattle Egret              Bubulcus ibis 
Cetti's Warbler          Cettia cetti 
Collared Dove           Streptopelia decaocto 
Collared Pratincole   Glareola pratincola 
Common Tern           Sterna hirundo 
Coot                          Fulica atra 
Cormorant                Phalacrocorax carbo 
Corn Bunting            Emberiza calandra 
Crested Lark            Galerida cristata 
Cuckoo                    Cuculus canorus 
Curlew                     Numenius arquata 
Dunlin                      Calidris alpina 
Fan-tailed Warbler   Cisticola juncidis 
Glossy Ibis               Plegadis falcinellus 
Goldfinch                 Carduelis carduelis 
Great Crested Grebe             Podiceps cristatus 
Great Reed Warbler               Acrocephalus arundinaceus 
Great Spotted Woodpecker   Dendrocopos major 
Great Tit                    Parus major 
Great White Egret     Ardea alba 
Greater Flamingo      Phoenicopterus roseus 
Green Sandpiper      Tringa ochropus 
Grey Heron               Ardea cinerea 
Gull-billed Tern         Gelochelidon nilotica 
Hobby                       Falco subbuteo 
Honey-buzzard         Pernis apivorus 
House Martin            Delichon urbicum 
House Sparrow         Passer domesticus 
Jackdaw                   Corvus monedula 
Kentish Plover          Charadrius alexandrinus 
Kestrel                      Falco tinnunculus 
Kingfisher                 Alcedo atthis 
Lapwing                   Vanellus vanellus 
Little Egret                Egretta garzetta 
Little Grebe              Tachybaptus ruficollis 
Little Owl                  Athene noctua 
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius 
Little Tern                 Sternula albifrons 
Long-tailed Tit          Aegithalos caudatus 
Magpie                     Pica pica 
Mallard                     Anas platyrhynchos 
Marsh Harrier          Circus aeruginosus 
Mediterranean Gull  Larus melanocephalus 
Melodious Warbler  Hippolais polyglotta 
Merlin                      Falco columbarius 
Montagu's Harrier   Circus pygargus 
Moorhen                 Gallinula chloropus 
Mute Swan             Cygnus olor 
Night-heron             Nycticorax nycticorax 
Nightingale              Luscinia megarhynchos 
Oystercatcher          Haematopus ostralegus 
Pheasant                 Phasianus colchicus 
Pied Flycatcher       Ficedula hypoleuca 
Purple Heron          Ardea purpurea 
Red-crested            Pochard Netta rufina 
Redshank               Tringa totanus 
Reed Warbler          Acrocephalus scirpaceus 
Ringed Plover         Charadrius hiaticula 
Sand Martin            Riparia riparia 
Sardinian Warbler   Sylvia melanocephala 
Scops Owl              Otus scops 
Serin                       Serinus serinus 
Shelduck                Tadorna tadorna 
Short-toed Eagle    Circaetus gallicus 
Skylark                   Alauda arvensis 
Slender-billed Gull Chroicocephalus genei 
Spoonbill                Platalea leucorodia 
Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus 
Squacco Heron      Ardeola ralloides 
Starling                  Sturnus vulgaris 
Swallow                 Hirundo rustica 
Swift                      Apus apus 
Tawny Pipit            Anthus campestris 
Teal                       Anas crecca 
Tree Sparrow        Passer montanus 
Turtle Dove           Streptopelia turtur 
Water Rail             Rallus aquaticus 
Western Swamphen   Porphyrio porphyrio 
Wheatear              Oenanthe oenanthe 
Whiskered Tern    Chlidonias hybrida 
White Stork           Ciconia ciconia 
Whitethroat            Sylvia communis 
White-winged Black Tern  Chlidonias leucopterus 
Willow Warbler      Phylloscopus trochilus 
Wood Sandpiper   Tringa glareola 
Woodpigeon         Columba palumbus 
Yellow Wagtail      Motacilla flava 
Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis 

Mammals 
Coypu                   Myocastor coypus 
Wild Boar              Sus scrofa 

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